An Aussie Method

General view showing the Japanese fan, Datsun alternator & Toyota pulley
There is a very slight mis-alignment but it is hardly noticeable.
The fan mounting bracket is very basic using 2 exhaust clamps and 2 strips of steel. The washers pack the fan back from the radiator
Corolla pulley mounted on its machined hub.
The fan I used was 10" (250mm) with 4 blades obtained from a Japanese wrecker.
These pics show the general assembly of the bolt, spacer and nuts required to mount the alternator to the standard generator bracket.
The spacer has a machined boss to fit in the existing hole in the front engine plate.
I have used this method to mount the sensor for the capillary type thermostat (a Davies Craig unit). I don't like the way they mount the sensor by jamming it up the top radiator hose and leaving it "dangle" in the water. A better engineering solution is to use a piece of copper pipe (approx 3/8" OD - 5/16" ID ) which is soldered into the header tank to accept the sensor. As the OD of the sensor doesn't quite match the pipe, I wrapped it in a piece of copper foil (0.007" thick 2 1/4" x 3 1/2") to make it a snug fit. A dab of heat resistant silastic keeps it in place.
This is the thermostat for the unit fitted just forward of the nearside tower. Fitting an old TV knob makes adjustment easy.
This trick makes it a little easier to remove & fit the bottom radiator bolts. Cut a screwdriver slot in the threaded end of the machine screw. Once it is loose, it can be removed & replaced with a screwdriver. Tighten finally with a spanner. Use anti-seize on the thread.
My radiator overflow chamber is from a Mini Moke and fits to the side of the engine on the distributor side. Use a standard 4lb cap...
... and on the radiator, use a blanking cap. The overflow hose needs to be a pressure type with firm clips top & bottom.
Photos - Rick Fletcher