Gearbox Removing Jib

REMOVING GEARBOXES - Solution 1

I devised the solution shown below, but here is yet another solution to the problem
- and probably an even better one!!
This one was contributed by Jan Rijckaertj, a member of the Belgian TR Register and he has
kindly allowed us to share it with you. Jan also supplied the photographs and details

Go to Jan's GEARBOX LIFTING CRANE

REMOVING GEARBOXES - Solution 2
Gearbox Removing Jib - Rick Fletcher 2002

I designed this simple Jib to help me remove the gearbox through the cockpit. As age creeps up on me, I find it more difficult to wrestle the gearbox both under the car - and in the cockpit.

I used to balance the box on a hydraulic creeper jack under the car (or on my chest!) and it was always a difficult task, either requiring a helper or much swearing and levering, and moving from under the car to the cockpit.

The problem is that the balance point for the mass of the gearbox and, in my case overdrive, is just about under the scuttle vent and doesn't lend itself to direct attachment of an overhead lifting support. To overcome this problem I have constructed a small jib arrangement from scrap metal which pivots from the back of the cockpit and provides a lifting point under the scuttle, just behind the battery box. The following pictures may explain it better.

The Jib made from scrap pipe and RHS held together with pipe clamps and long bolts. The only fabrication I did was to weld a lug to the pipe clamp which connects to the hook on my lifting device. Approximate sizes are given below. This stuff all came out of my scrap box.	You still need a lifting device - in my case an overhead gantry winch but chain falls or an engine crane would do the same job. The fulcrum is at the back with effort applied so that it just clears the windscreen
The piece of RHS straddles the transmission tunnel (actually sits on it) and is pivoted at each side via long bolts through my seat anchor bolt holes. You won't have the latter holes ....	...shown in this pic, but you could you use the exsisting holes for the body to chassis outrigger which are visible in the pic. Because there is no captive nut under my seat anchorage, I used a plain nut and bolt. You may need to fabricate an extra long UNF bolt to use the existing outrigger captive nuts. Make it with a longer thread so you can add an extra security nut & washer underneath.
The pipe stops just short of the battery box. I supported the 'box using a quality rope sling around the front of the drain plug & the rear of the main gearbox casting	To use it: follow the instructions in the workshop manual. The car needs to be on jack stands so you can get under. Support the engine at the rear of the sump using a jack and padding. BE CAREFUL - WORK SAFELY - USE QUALITY STANDS Undo the tailshaft and rear g'box mounts. I usually raise the engine with the jack under the sump so that the top of the box will just clear the firewall cutout. The g'box should be floating above its rear mount and still bolted to the block. Take the weight of the box on the Gearbox Jib - only just enough! Remove the 'box to block bolts and if you have the Jib lift pressure correct, and the sling at the balance point, the box should separate cleanly. The rope sling and smooth jib pipe will let you slide the box gently backwards - no dramas or swearing! It can be twisted slightly to free the clutch release arm if needed but mine just "popped" free. Amazing! Just me - no help - no hernias. it can then be raised enough to clear the floor pan and twisted across the floor. I then released & removed the jib and used the hook directly on the rope sling to lift the 'box out of the cockpit. MAKE SURE YOU USE APPROPRIATE STRENGTH COMPONENTS & A GOOD STRONG SLING. Re-install using the reverse procedure

SIZES:

The jib is 1 1/2" pipe about 38" long. The distance from the pivot to the front of the pipe is 32 1/2"
The distance from the pivot to the lifting point is 12"
The cross piece is RHS (rectangular hollow section steel) 38" long (a bit longer if you use the outer outrigger holes) 2" x 1" section
The bolts are 3/8" dia. and 9" long (a little longer would be better)

I hope this helps you out. It certainly made removal and re-installation of my gearbox a much simpler one person job.

ADDENDUM

(October 2003): one of our club members (Howard Wood) modified the rear support for the jib by running a piece of strong timber UNDER the chassis and contriving an arrangement outside the width of the car. I imagine a couple of long threaded rods joining the piece of timber under the car to a similar strong piece of timber (or steel) just above the rear door shut - both pieces wider than the car. This would save using bolts through the chassis outriggers. The rear jib mounting would probably need to be bolted under the top piece of timber (or steel).